Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and visitors equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a prestigious group of world cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it joins a worldwide network of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "stands as proof of its profound food heritage and vibrant culinary scene," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this historic city is no surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, bustling, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is now in the limelight for what has always shaped its heart: an profound devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a continued dialogue from waking up until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, evolved, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, merging Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on countless corners, there are little shops and stalls – hidden gems that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a no-frills joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and involved. The cook hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will inspire more people worldwide to explore these stories and experience the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
