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When curating a list of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred names. But, nestled prominently among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying area of northern London.

An Surprise Accolade

This compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the proprietors utterly astonished.

“I’m totally astonished,” says the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their humble restaurant securing such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its original charm. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the cuisine, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender consistency.

It is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, toastier and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for under £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can run into many times that amount.

The Ethos of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s success is likely to echo beyond its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this culinary honour.